I always change my oil at the 3500 mile mark. A used oil sample may analyze ok, but a side-by-side comparasion to a new sample in the Falex machine can be a real eye opener. I employed a tribologist at one time, and learned a LOT about oils and lubrication. The best thing you can do to extend the life of your car or lawnmower is change the oil. I have never replaced the catalyst on any of them. They always pass with less than 2% of the allowable emissions. All three vehicles are catalyst equipped, and I have NEVER had an emissions issue with any of them. My '93 F150 4.9L work truck is at the 100k mark, and uses less than a pint in 3500 miles as well. I have 200k on my '88 Saab 900, and it still uses a pint of oil in 3500 miles - never been apart either. My '86 Ranger 2.3L went past the 300,000 mile mark with the original gaskets still in the motor. I have run Rotella T or Delo 400 in several gasoline engines over the years, with great results. With a turbocharger feeding a rootes blower, and piston ports for intakes, that old detroit was hard on oil. It has a far better additive package, designed to deal with the abuse an old 2-stroke detroit diesel can dish out. Before catalyst equipped cars, it was acceptable to use CC-CD rated oil in gasoline engines. Of course, where the additive package falls within the spec can only be determined by testing an actual sample. The API classifications are alleged to be the same across brands for the same classification. The quantity is so small, the added cost is hard to notice. Nick: I would be inclined to run the Synthetic Rotella T 15w-40 in that honda. Ha, Sears wants over 400 bucks for just the engine on that 225 buck motor, so I am going to have to take good care of it. Maybe should think about using a synthetic oil as these engines can run much hotter. Is this good enough or should I be looking to Wal-Mart for the Shell brand? Thought all API service classifications of a given type were the same regardless of brand.
#3.5 hp tecumseh engine oil capacity manual
The manual recommends API service classification SGâÂÂSL or very common engine oil 10W-30 for extended temperature operation, not much has changed over the years as these things don't have an oil filter so should be changed every 25 hours, I assume that Tecumseh is a gasoline powered unit. Sears is having a clearance and got that Honda for $225.00, cheapest I could find around here, all with the same identical Honda engine. Well that saved me a headache and tired of taking that thing apart. I have an interest in this question as I just purchased a Craftsman lawn mower with a Honda 5.5 HP engine, started my 30 year Lawn Boy on the first pull a couple of days ago on the first pull, ran fine for five minutes, then died. "Among the many misdeeds of the British rule in India, history will look upon the act of depriving a whole nation of arms, as the blackest." ~ Mahatma Gandhi, Gandhi, An Autobiography, M. Shortly after that, the big automakers switched to roller lifters. When they removed the zinc (actually zddp) from the passenger car oils, we started to see a big increase in camshaft failures. Because it is a a metal, and could enter the exhaust stream, it "might" reduce the effeciency of the catalytic convertor on cars. Zinc is a high pressure additive, and greatly extends the load carrying capacity of the oil. The reason the automakers no longer recommend the Diesel fleet oils in passenger cars is the zinc content of the oil. WalMart carries the Rotella, and even carries the synthetic Rotella T. You can buy both of those oils at Autozone or Checker. You caqn use straight 30w in your climate most of the time, but the 15w-40 is a better choice for year-round backup generators. The little air cooled 4-strokes heat up quickly, so thicker oil is not really an issue, especially in TX. Mr Bill: In my experience, 15w-40 diesel fleet oil like Shell Rotella T or Delo 400 gives the best engine life - especially in constant run applications like generators.
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